跨地方品牌升级的影响因素与路径——ZARA广州案例

doi:10.11821/dlyj201702007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

品牌地理是消费与文化地理研究的重要话题。全球化背景下,品牌突破既有地理边界向全球范围扩展,通过与品牌源地、消费地等互动实现品牌重塑。ZARA在西方具有消极品牌形象,却在中国实现品牌升级。基于文献综述与质性研究设计问卷,回收有效问卷149份,采用结构方程模型探讨跨地方品牌升级的影响因素与路径。结果发现：① 国际快时尚品牌与全球时尚地方互动提升全球化形象;② 国际快时尚品牌与全球时尚地方互动是感知质量的重要外部线索;③ 在地时尚环境对个人融入全球时尚程度的总影响最大,但对国际快时尚跨地方品牌升级的总影响却不显著;④ 感知质量是国际快时尚跨地方品牌升级最重要的影响因素。结论明确了地方维度在快时尚品牌跨地方升级中的重要作用,既认识到当今中国消费者受时尚审美偏好和经济购买力双重约束对ZARA跨地方品牌升级的促进作用,又承认自反性消费可能产生的消极影响。

关键词: 快时尚, 地方, 跨地方, 品牌升级, 文化地理

Abstract:

The geography of brands is one of the most important research themes in both cultural geography and the geography of commerce. Influenced by intensifying globalization, brands have gradually broken out of physical geographical boundaries and thus expanded into the global scale. It can be described as a trans-local commercial process. Owing to the standard pricing policies, identical styles, and similar decorations and brand images worldwide, the fast fashion brands in western developed countries have been associated with negative connotations. However, in a number of developing countries, such as in China, those fast fashion brands have undergone a process of upgrading, namely, the prices being boosted to higher levels. In this sense, it is an interesting research topic to find out what factors influence the trans-local upgrading of those fast fashion brands. Based on the case of one fast fashion brand - ZARA, this study puts together literature analysis and quantitative research methods, including questionnaire and structural equation model, to discuss how ZARA has been trans-locally upgraded in China. A conceptual model is proposed, which includes six variables, respectively, brand and fashion places, local fashion environment, perceived global brand image, personal involvement in global fashion, perceived quality, and trans-local upgrading of fast fashion brands. Overall, this systematic analysis draws from a literature review and qualitative research findings. Consistent with the scales utilized by previous research, incorporating qualitative texts, and drawing insights from opinions of experts specializing in cultural geography and business management, the questionnaire is finalized to include a total of 25 statements which reflect the measurements of the above six variables. Then, this study examines the factors that influence the trans-local upgrading process in previous studies, enters data from the 149 valid questionnaires that have been garnered through the SOJUMP website in November 2015, analyzes the collected data with SPSS 19.0, and tests the conceptual model with Lisrel 8.72. The main findings can be concluded as follows. First, the connection between brands and global fashion places helps to build the global image for fast fashion brands. Second, the connection between brands and global fashion places is an important external factor that has great impact on the brand quality perceived by consumers. Third, the local fashion environment has the biggest influence on personal involvement in global fashion while its influence is not statistically significant on trans-local upgrading of fast fashion brands. Fourth, the perceived quality is one of the primary factors that have impact on the trans-local upgrading of fast fashion brands. In so doing, this paper constructs a theoretical model of fast fashion brands' trans-local upgrading and empirically shows that place is an important dimension for brand upgrading. It on the one hand has testified the role and the significance of the dual constraints of aesthetic preference and actual purchasing power of Chinese consumers in promoting the trans-local upgrading of the fast fashion brands; on the other hand, it has also demonstrated that there may be negative implications of Chinese consumers' reflective consumptions.

Key words: fast fashion, place, trans-local, brand upgrading, cultural geography

刘博, 朱竑. 跨地方品牌升级的影响因素与路径——ZARA广州案例[J]. 地理研究, 2017, 36(2): 281-293.

Bo LIU, Hong ZHU. Empirical study of trans-local upgrading of ZARA[J]. GEOGRAPHICAL RESEARCH, 2017, 36(2): 281-293.

图/表 9

图1

表1

表2

表3

表4

表5

表6

图2

表7

参考文献 55

[1]	杨晓光. 中国品牌的地区分布及其影响. 地理学报, 2005, 60(2): 189-197.
	[Yang Xiaoguang.Distribution of China's brands and their influence on economic pattern of China in the future. Acta Geographical Sinica, 2005, 60(2): 189-197.]
[2]	Pike A.Geographies of brands and branding. Progress in Human Geography, 2009, 33(5): 619-645.
[3]	韦江绿, 罗震东. 基于高端时尚消费品销售空间的中国城市控制力结构研究. 地理科学, 2012, 32(2): 162-168.
	[Wei Jianglu, Luo Zhendong.Power of cities in China based on analysis on spatial pattern of advanced fashion goods sales. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2012, 32(2): 162-168.]
[4]	汪明峰, 孙莹. 全球化与中国时尚消费城市的兴起. 地理研究, 2013, 32(12): 2334-2345. doi: 10.11821/dlyj201312027
	[Wang Mingfeng, Sun Ying.Globalization and the rise of fashion consumption cities in China. Geographical Research, 2013, 32(12): 2334-2345.] doi: 10.11821/dlyj201312027
[5]	曾国军, 刘梅, 刘博, 等. 跨地方饮食文化生产的过程研究: 基于符号化的原真性视角. 地理研究, 2013, 32(12): 2366-2376. doi: 10.11821/dlyj201312018
	[Zeng Guojun, Liu Mei, Liu Bo, et al.Research on process to translocal restaurants' culture production: Based on the perspective of symbolization of authenticity. Geographical Research, 2013, 32(12): 2366-2376.] doi: 10.11821/dlyj201312018
[6]	曾国军, 李凌, 刘博, 等. 跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑: 西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究. 地理学报, 2014, 69(12): 1871-1886. doi: 10.11821/dlxb201412012
	[Zeng Guojun, Li Ling, Liu Bo, et al.Reconstructed authenticity in translocal cultural production of food: A case study of Northwest China cuisine in Guangdong. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2014, 69(12): 1871-1886.] doi: 10.11821/dlxb201412012
[7]	Moor L.The Rise of Brands. London: Berg, 2007.
[8]	Hauge A, Malmberg A, Power D.The spaces and places of Swedish fashion. European Planning Studies, 2009, 17(4): 529-547.
[9]	Wenting R.Spinoff dynamics and the spatial formation of the fashion design industry, 1858-2005. Journal of Economic Geography, 2008, 8(5): 593-614.
[10]	Ritzer G.The McDonaldization Thesis: Explorations and Extensions. London: Sage, 1998.
[11]	Boland P.The construction of images of people and place: Labelling Liverpool and stereotyping Scousers. Cities, 2008, 25(6): 355-369. doi: 10.1016/j.cities.2008.09.003
[12]	王宁. 消费全球化: 视野分歧与理论重构. 学术研究, 2012, (8): 30-42.
	[Wang Ning.Consumption globalization: View differences and theory of refactoring. Academic Research, 2012, (8): 30-42.]
[13]	曾国军, 孙树芝. 跨地方饮食品牌重塑的理论模型与实证分析. 地理学报, 2016, 71(2): 338-351. doi: 10.11821/dlxb201602012
	[Zeng Guojun, Sun Shuzhi.Theoretical model and empirical study of translocal food rebranding. Acta Geographical Sinica, 2016, 71(2): 338-351.] doi: 10.11821/dlxb201602012
[14]	Tokatli N.Global sourcing: Insights from the global clothing industry: The case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer. Journal of Economic Geography, 2008, 8(1): 21-38.
[15]	Weller S.Fashion as viscous knowledge: Fashion's role in shaping trans-national garment production. Journal of Economic Geography, 2007, 7(1): 39-66.
[16]	Banister E N, Hogg M K.Negative symbolic consumption and consumers' drive for self-esteem: The case of the fashion industry. European Journal of Marketing, 2004, 38(7): 850-868.
[17]	刘胜, 邬关荣. 以 ZARA为例对品牌服装顾客满意度分析. 丝绸, 2009, (3): 9-11.
	[Liu Sheng, Wu Guanrong.Customer satisfaction of brand clothes: A case study of ZARA. Silk Monthly, 2009, (3): 9-11.]
[18]	Jackson P.Rematerializing social and cultural geography. Social & Cultural Geography, 2000, 1(1): 9-14.
[19]	Dwyer C, Crang P.Fashioning ethnicities: The commercial spaces of multiculture. Ethnicities, 2002, 2(3): 410-430.
[20]	Jackson P, Thomas N, Dwyer C.Consuming transnational fashion in London and Mumbai. Geoforum, 2007, 38(5): 908-924.
[21]	Wilmott H.Political cultural economy and the financialization of brand equity. Paper for the Centre for Research on Socio-Cultural Change Annual Conference 'Re-thinking Cultural Economy', 2007, 5-7 September, University of Manchester, 2007.
[22]	王海忠, 赵平. 品牌原产地效应及其市场策略建议: 基于欧、美、日、中四地品牌形象调查分析. 中国工业经济, 2004, (1): 78-86.
	[Wang Haizhong, Zhao Ping.Country of brand effect: An empirical study in China and its marketing managerial implications. China Industrial Economy, 2004, (1): 78-86.]
[23]	Meyers-Levy J, Tybout A M.Schema congruity as a basis for product evaluation. Journal of Consumer Research, 1989, 16(1): 39-54.
[24]	Maheswaran D.Country of origin as a stereotype: Effects of consumer expertise and attribute strength on product evaluations. Journal of Consumer Research, 1994, 21(2): 354-365.
[25]	Jackson P.Local consumption cultures in a globalizing world. Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 2004, 29(2): 165-78.
[26]	袁登华, 杨双. 品牌印象研究述评. 心理科学, 2012, 35(4): 957-961.
	[Yuan Denghua, Yang Shuang.A review of researches on brand impression. Journal of Psychological Science, 2012, 35(4): 957-961.]
[27]	Molotch H.Place in product. International Journal of Urban and Regional Research, 2002, 26(4): 665-688.
[28]	Jansson J, Power D.Fashioning a global city: Global city brand channels in the fashion and design industries. Regional Studies, 2010, 44(7): 889-904.
[29]	卢芹莉, 张翔. 中国城市时尚度分布格局及其影响因子. 经济地理, 2013, 33(10): 1-7.
	[Lu Qinli, Zhang Xiang.The inflect factors of the distribution about urban fashion degree in China. Economic Geography, 2013, 33(10): 1-7.]
[30]	李敏, 王鑫, 王婷婷, 等.快速时尚品牌消费者的购买决策影响因素. 东华大学学报: 自然科学版, 2010, 36(2): 208-212, 228.
	[Li Min, Wang Xin, Wang Tingting, et al.The influencing factors of consumer's purchase decision-making of fast fashion brands. Journal of Donghua University: Natural Science, 2010, 36(2): 208-212, 228.]
[31]	林耿, 沈建萍. 大城市健身消费与地方建构. 地理学报, 2011, 66(10): 1321-1331.
	[Lin Geng, Shen Jianping.The consumption of body-building and the construction of place in a metropolis. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2011, 66(10): 1321-1331.]
[32]	Claudiu V D, Johny K J, Ilkka A R.Cognitive and affective reactions of U. S. consumers to global brands. Journal of International Marketing, 2008, 16(4): 113-135.
[33]	Levy S J.Roots of marketing and consumer research at the University of Chicago. Consumption, Markets and Culture, 2003, 6(2): 99-110.
[34]	Keller K L. Strategic Brand Management. Upper Saddle River: Prentice-Hall Inc, 2008.
[35]	Batra R, Ramaswamy V, Alden D L, et al.Effects of brand local/nonlocal origin on consumer attitudes in developing countries. Journal of Consumer Psychology, 2000, 9(2): 83-95.
[36]	朱凌, 王盛, 陆雄文. 中国城市消费者的中外品牌偏好研究. 管理世界, 2003, (9): 122-128.
	[Zhu Ling, Wang Sheng, Lu Xiongwen.The Chinese and foreign brand preference of Chinese urban consumers. Management World, 2003, (9): 122-128.]
[37]	Hall S, Held D, McGrew A. Modernity and Its Futures. Cambridge: Polity Press, 1992.
[38]	吴水龙, 胡左浩, 于春玲, 等. 品牌全球化形象对消费者选择的影响: 调节因素的分析. 商业经济与管理, 2012, (12): 52-60.
	[Wu Shuilong, Hu Zuohao, Yu Chunling, et al.An empirical study on the effect of perceived brand globalness on consumers' brand choice: The moderating roles. Journal of Business Economics, 2012, (12): 52-60.]
[39]	Alden D L, Steenkamp J B E M, Batra R. Brand positioning through advertising in Asia, North America, and Europe: The role of global consumer culture. Journal of Marketing, 1999, 63(1): 75-87.
[40]	Friedman J.Being in the world: Globalization and localization. Theory, Culture and Society, 1990, 7(2): 311-328.
[41]	马杰伟. 时尚志. 上海:复旦大学出版社, 2012.
	[Ma Jiewei.Trends Factory: A Visual Ethnography. Shanghai: Fudan University Press, 2012.]
[42]	戴光全, 陈欣, 刘丹萍. 后现代时尚消费者的生活方式: 基于某时尚杂志网上论坛的分析. 华南师范大学学报: 社会科学版, 2009, (4): 114-120.
	[Dai Guangquan, Chen Xin, Liu Danping.Postmodern fashion consumer lifestyle: Based on analysis of a fashion magazine online BBS. Journal of South China Normal University: Social Science Edition, 2009, (4): 114-120.]
[43]	Zeithaml V A.Consumer perceptions of price, quality, and value: A means-end model and synthesis of evidence. Journal of Marketing, 1988, 52(3): 2-22.
[44]	Kamenidou I, Mylonakis J, Nikolouli K.An exploratory study on the reasons for purchasing imported high fashion apparels: The case of Greece. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 2007, 11(1): 148-160.
[45]	郭惠玲. 快时尚品牌顾客满意度影响因素实证研究: 以快时尚服装为例. 中国流通经济, 2015, (2): 98-106.
	[Guo Huiling.An empirical study on the influential factors of fashion brand customer satisfaction. China Business and Market, 2015, (2): 98-106.]
[46]	黄晶晶. 品牌服装企业以审美化为框架的组织制品研究. 泉州: 华侨大学博士学位论文, 2011.
	[Huang Jingjing.A study on the organizational artifacts of brand fashion enterprises in the frame of aestheticization. Quanzhou: Doctoral Dissertation of Huaqiao University, 2011.]
[47]	Mazaira A, González E, Avendaño R.The role of market orientation on company performance through the development of sustainable competitive advantage: The Inditex-Zara case. Marketing Intelligence & Planning, 2003, 21(4): 220-229.
[48]	贾新明, 刘亮. 结构方程模型与联立方程模型的比较. 数理统计与管理, 2008, 27(3): 439-446.
	[Jia Xinming, Liu Liang.Comparing the Structural Equation Model with the Simultaneous Equation Model. Application of Statistics and Management, 2008, 27(3): 439-446.]
[49]	Xiong B, Skitmore M, Xia B.A critical review of structural equation modeling applications in construction research. Automation in Construction, 2015, 49(A): 59-70.
[50]	Bagozzi R P, Yi Y.Specification, evaluation, and interpretation of Structural Equation Models. Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, 2012, 40(1): 8-34. doi: 10.1007/s11747-011-0278-x
[51]	Bentler P M, Chou C-P.Practical issues in structural modeling. Sociological Methods & Research, 1987, 16(1): 78-117.
[52]	Anderson J C, Gerbing D W.Structural Equation Modeling in practice: A review and recommended two-step approach. Psychological Bulletin, 1988, 103(3): 411-423.
[53]	刘博, 朱竑. ZARA跨国品牌升级: 空间发展史视角. 热带地理, 2016, 36(2): 174-180. doi: 10.13284/j.cnki.rddl.002817
	[Liu Bo, Zhu Hong.Transnational upgrading of ZARA: Perspective of spatial-temporal history. Tropical Geography, 2016, 36(2): 174-180.] doi: 10.13284/j.cnki.rddl.002817
[54]	Sklair L.Sociology of the Global System. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1995.
[55]	Lash S, Urry J.Economies of Signs and Space. London, Thousand Oaks and New Delhi: Sage Publications, 1994.

概念	测量项目	参考文献
R	ZARA在全球时尚城市开设旗舰店提升品牌时尚地位	Hauge等^[8]Weller^[17] Jansson等^[28] 深度访谈发现
	ZARA从全球时尚城市获取时尚创意提升品牌时尚指数
	ZARA在全球知名城市开设门店增强其全球时尚影响力
	ZARA与奢侈品牌为邻彰显其时尚品位
E	广州的时尚资讯很丰富	李敏等^[30]
	在广州很容易买到全球时尚产品
	在广州能够买到几乎所有全球知名品牌服饰
	广州称得上“时尚都市”
BG	ZARA是全球知名品牌	吴水龙等^[38]
	ZARA是欧美风格
	ZARA在很多国家开设门店
IG	我了解全球时尚品牌	李敏等^[30] 吴水龙等^[38]
	我了解全球时尚潮流
	我喜欢购买在全世界都受欢迎的品牌
	我的着装能体现当季时尚潮流
Q	ZARA设计时尚	Kamenidou等^[44]
	ZARA款式多样
	ZARA款式新颖
	ZARA面料舒适
	ZARA做工精细
	总体来说,我认为ZARA质量很好
BU	在中国,ZARA是低端品牌	刘胜等^[19] 文献综述定义
	在中国,ZARA属于中高端品牌
	国内ZARA价格不比国外高
	相比国外,国内ZARA折扣更少

变量	R	E	BG	IG	Q	BU
指标数目	2	2	2	2	2	2
α值	0.94	0.92	0.83	0.92	0.94	0.74

	R	E	BG	IG	Q
E	0.43（0.09）
BG	0.57（0.09）	0.36（0.08）
IG	0.04（0.07）	0.04（0.06）	0.15（0.07）
Q	0.58（0.09）	0.57（0.09）	0.59（0.09）	0.05（0.07）
BU	0.28（0.07）	0.33（0.08）	0.30（0.07）	0.04（0.05）	0.41 （0.10）

	R	E	BG	IG	Q	BU
R	0.88	0.22	0.49	0.00	0.40	0.21
E	0.47	0.87	0.21	0.00	0.40	0.29
BG	0.70	0.46	0.71	0.01	0.53	0.30
IG	0.03	0.03	0.12	0.57	0.00	0.00
Q	0.63	0.63	0.73	0.04	0.88	0.52
BU	0.46	0.54	0.55	0.05	0.72	0.70

变量间的关系	系数	标准化估计值	T值
R (ξ1)-BG (η1)	γ1,1	0.64	8.84
E (ξ2)-IG (η2)	γ2,2	0.65	5.93
BG (η1)-Q (η3)	β3,1	0.64	7.32
IG (η2)-Q (η3)	β3,2	0.18	2.30
Q (η3)-BU (η4)	β4,3	0.19	2.37